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When compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners completely shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble shop securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary honour.